Taiwan: Day 4

After a long day of trekking, one should relax for the day. And after all itinerary has been covered, it's time to shop and once shopping is done, it's time to gorge down all the great food. That is what Day 4 is all about.

Waking up late was the plan but we ended up waking early. Another breakfast out of the hotel and we made our way toward Beitou which is known for the hot spring resorts. Beitou is about 45mins train ride from Ximending and is connected to another line to Xinbeitou. Eventhough it is just a stop away, the train has an interactive service which took the journey longer than other services. It was about a repetitive 10 mins ride.

Besides hot spring, other attraction would be its natural hot spring known as Hell's Valley. The hot spring is at 100 degrees Celsius so it's not permitted for entrance except the surrounding path. Gazed upon the steamy natural hot spring which trailed down a stream towards a cooler temperature where local will dip their feet into. The stream runs further towards the Beitou Library which is quite a stunning view

There is also a Hot Spring Museum which is a free admission but we did not enter due to no shoes permitted. Someone was wearing stylishly in boots which was a nuisance to remove.

Main intention for the visit to Beitou was the hot spring. I did not managed to experience a communal hot spring in Japan and upon hearing that Taiwan has one, I went to try there instead. There are a few hot spring resorts and an outdoor hot spring which is overrun by the elderly. I did my research and was excited to visit Asia Pacific Resort. I did not made any reservation as the reviews mentioned that walk-in public bath was effortless. I was disappointed when I reached the venue.

Facility as shown on the website

But arrived to this

Asia Pacific Resort has been demolished. I've just checked the website the day before but there wasn't any updates of it closure. There was a guard there and he directed us to a sub-company hot spring which was just across the street, Poetry Among The Trees. The resort has the same rates and facilities as Asia Pacific Resort. Thankfully I ended happy again.

Even though we had a communal bath, we were the only one present. So I did managed to snapped some photos. Check it out in the Beitou album.

So after a rejuvenating bath, we ventured out to our sins desire - SHOPPING. We went to Taipei City Hall again for a quick lunch at Agnes B cafe and then onwards to Eslite and ATT 4 Fun for bags and shoes, Dun Hua for another bag and Lomography stuffs, and to Ximending for some last grabs. We went back to the hotel rooms with tons of shopping bags. 

After all the shopping and expected that we'll be hungry, we set out to Shihlin again to fill our tummy's desire. We made ourselves famished to enjoy the street food available. 

Curried Fish balls

Famous Crispy Chicken

Spicy Shrimp Balls

Not sure but something like Kaya Balls

Massively huge Herbal tea to cool down the many spicy treats

I had a blast with all the food though I had a slight disappointment with the crispy chicken - it has bones unlike Singapore which does not. The taste is superb still, better than Singapore nonetheless. The chili powder of the chicken burnt my lips but thanks to the massive herbal tea, I managed to cool it off. I had multiple rounds of the fish balls and the shrimp was too darn good that I did not remember which street I got it from. I had the intention to try the smelly tofu but didn't managed to fulfill the crave. After all the foods, the smell of it nearly made me throw out all the good food. Hence there was no regret.

Day 5 was mostly lazing around before flight. So there won't be a Day 5 entry however I would like to add that I had the worst returning flight. Firstly, it was delayed due to a long taxi in Taoyuan and secondly, every seats are fixed to it's upright position. I can see the discomfort of all the passengers especially those who transit from Osaka. I was actually happy when we've landed in Singapore.

I had a great time in Taiwan. It could have been a great solo trip but to have someone is better especially during dining. I would really enjoy to dine with someone so that I can savor many foods and share it with them. I understand the Chinese conversations but I have a problem replying so thank you Hakimbo for being the translator. Given the chance to go Taiwan again, I would revisit Taroko Gorge for the trail with permit and to travel to the western and southern side of Taiwan.

Next up, it's a quick get-fat getaway to Kuala Lumpur in mid January and a Feb-Mar-Apr trip to Korea. Let's hope my Hanguk would be good by then.

Taiwan: Day 3

With the early retreat from a day of exploring Taipei City, we had to wake up early in the morning around 5am to prepare and catch the earliest train out of Taipei to Hualien County.

To get the a confirmed seating of the train with Taiwan Railway, booking has to be done 2 weeks before departure but that depends on your luck. Passengers can make reservation online but must collect the tickets within 3 days unless an online payment is made. If no payment and no collection are done, the reserved ticket will be put up for sale once more. I couldn't get the ticket exactly 2 weeks in advance but managed to get it 3 days after, knowing someone did not make payment nor collection. A return ticket to Hualien county cost around SGD45.

There are several trains en-route towards Hualien under the Tze-Chiang, an express non-stop service or Chu Kang services, a slower and a lower class service.

I've managed to book the Tze Chiang express service departing at 6.30am which was approximately a 3 hour ride. So much for an express service as it stops almost at every stop. Uniquely though, we were surprised that our seats were taken when we board the train. Upon checking, the passengers were students going to school several stops away. Their ticket was without seats so they will take every opportunity for an empty seats. No way I'm going to stand for the next 3 hours.

The journey is a scenic coastal route with plenty of open sea, mountain and valley views. The scenery is nature at it's greenest. No wonder Taiwan was known as Formosa,  a Portugal word for Beautiful Island. I was exhilarated to reach our destination

After a three hours of snapping scenic shots, we finally reach Hualien. It feels like a lonesome town from the long distance to the previous stop. The mountainous view from the station was stunning.

I've did an intensive research on Hualien or more notably Taroko Gorge. I read about moving around Taroko, by public bus, by bicycle, by tour coaches which are mostly in chinese, and by personal guides. I've read great reviews of some guides from Tripadvisors.com. I would settle for a female guide but initial solo plans may cause an awkward moment throughout the trip. So I made reservation with another notable guide who is great in English, Tonny Teng. His charter service cost around SGD 120 for 4 heads. No matter the headcount, you still pay him the amount. I almost paid that amount as a solo traveler but thanks to Hakimbo, he shared the cost. 

Tonny actually drives a taxi but made it into a charter service for Taroko Gorge. He also planned the best itinerary for the whole tour and it was quite organized. Upon reaching the entrance of the the gorge, we stopped for a scenic view and a photograph of the legendary gate.

The start of an awesome adventure

Next on the itinerary was the start of our first trail. From the entrance was about a 5 minutes drive through tunnels and cliffside roads.  Shakadang trail is a truly a magnificent trail alongside crystal clear stream. The trail is a 4km long hike and is truly breathtaking at every inch. The trail ends at a cabin and requires a permit to pursue further. Tonny mentioned that we do not need to complete the 4km but to our own discretion on the turning point. We trailed up to 3.2km as the path gets too repetitive and we covered majority of the scenic location advised by Tonny. The Shakadang Trail took us approximately 1.5hrs for a total of 6.4km plus all the stops for photographs.

Next on the list was a short stopover at Eternal Spring Shrine. There is a trail there but Tonny advised that it would best be the last hike. So for then, he recommend to take pictures of the clear area as later during the day the place will be overrun by China tourist hogging the best view. After a few snaps, we ventured on to another location. We had a quick stop along the way to view and snap some gorgeous scenery such as waterfall and rock formations. There was also a road block that opens every hour due to construction and clearing of landslides. 

The next trail would be the Swallow Grotto which is a tunnel roadside trail. There were nesting formations in the tunnel for the swallows alas the name. Opposite the cliffs were potholes formations and a pretty waterfall. Halfway of the trail, Tonny was waiting for us to show some unique formation - an Indian Chieftain and a gorilla. Check out the picture on the left and spot them.

Tonny left us again and we continued on the trail. There wasn't much interesting things to see but the beauty of the area is just captivating. Not sure how long the actual trail was but Tonny awaited at a very wide cliff formation. Cameras can't capture the vastness of the cliff but we were awestruck when he brought us to view it from a different location. We were practically tiny.

Too sexy

There were many more stopovers for stunning cliff and rock formations, and also waterfalls. A usual planned itinerary would be the Tunnel of Nine Turns trail but the trail has been closed for quite awhile due to the constant rock falls. Moving on to the next trail before we return back towards the Eternal Spring Shrine is the Lushui Trail which is a 2km nature trail. Approximately 1km into the trail is 30m long tunnel which is pitch black. A torchlight is recommended but you'll be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel after a turn in the tunnel. However, if you're walking behind someone, all the best because that person will block the entrance light until you get nearer. Tonny waited us at the end of the trail and brought us back to the intended last hike.

As Tonny previously mentioned, the Eternal Spring Shrine was packed with rowdy China tourist. Even he was irritated by the commotion. Since we had a clear shot earlier, we pursued the last trail which was an inclined trail of 2.4km long. There were 4 sections to the trail, the bottom, middle and top shrine, and lastly a temple which is hidden behind the cliff as pictured below.

Eternal Spring Shrine

The trails were mostly stairs indented along the cliffs. The steep steps from the bottom were gruesome till Hakimbo experience cramps. As we get higher, the steps became broader. We kept on walking not realizing that we passed the middle shrine which was lower than our current path. We decided to forgo due to the thought of re-climbing the steps so we ventured on towards the next location which was the top shrine. The view was amazing, overlooking the accomplishment from the start of the trail to where we were standing and also the end point - the hidden temple. The last obstacle is a suspension bridge (worst idea after all the climbing) where Tonny awaits our arrival. Our legs were like jelly but Tonny didn't let us through, explaining the beauty and history of the trail. And as a reward, he gave us a wild plant which was quite refreshing with all the natural fibre and moisture to refresh yourself. 

The wild refreshing plant

That marks the end of Taroko Gorge. We ended earlier than expected which Tonny was impressed. With all the military training, the trail was an ease. We completed it earlier than most of his other groups.  Taroko Gorge was my main highlight of Taiwan. Everyone was shocked that I would go trekking on a holiday but it truly was a great experience.

Tonny has been a great guide - with a great itinerary and an excellent English speaker. He even help to re-book our train back to Taipei as we had to wait 3hours for our purchased train ride. With his help we managed to board the next approaching train.

Do check out the photos of Hualien and Taroko Gorge below. Also if you are truly interested, I would recommend Tonny as your guide. Below are his details.

Taroko Gorge Part 1

Taroko Gorge Part 2

Tonny Teng

Whatsapp/Mobile: +886 975 101232

Taiwan: Day 2

After a good night sleep on a uber comfortable bed and excellent hot shower, the day became dark and we equipped with an umbrella each. Sadly, the day was bright and windy the whole day so we were carrying a redundant umbrella the whole day.

Breakfast at the hotel was not that great. Firstly, there isn't much of a variety and secondly majority of the variety are with pork. Not that it matters but it was not that appetizing hence we had breakfast elsewhere.

First stop on the itinerary was Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall. It's just 2 stops away from Ximending and upon exiting the station, we're blown by the chilling wind till my hair was messed up. And as we walked through the garden, we were greeted by a square in view of a concert hall and a theater by the sides, and the CKS memorial hall up ahead.

The view up ahead - Chiang Kai-Shek

View from CKS

The Guard of Honor stationed at the CKS hall will conduct a changing of guards ceremony every hour. With an hourly ceremony, I won't expect it to be like those in Singapore which is only conducted every first Sunday of the month. The ceremony was quite simple but the precision marching would put some shame to Singaporean GOH. I know because I was one of them.

After checking out the exhibits, we made our way toward Taipei 101by MRT to Taipei City Hall. There is a shuttle to Taipei 101 but as a traveller, we walked towards the tower. But it was a wrong thing to do because we were greeted by great shopping mall. Eslite was one of them which was on my itinerary too. The main objective was the tower so we continued onwards but keeping our mind to return to Eslite.

Taipei 101 is a shopping centre with a tower observation deck on the 89th floor. Entry is SGD17. The queue on weekend are crazy but they had a queue timing, every 100 visitors for every 20 minutes.

There are 4 levels to the observation deck. First is the main observation floor on 89th floor which has the 360 views of the city. On the higher floor is the outdoor observation deck. Still the same windy day, my hair messed up in another direction.

Moving lower to 88th floor is the world largest and heaviest wind dampener. The dampener was coated in yellow which look like a huge luxurious golden ball. Moving along towards the exit, you'll go through the souvenir store which sell jewelries made of coral reefs and attractions souvenir shops. That was the best opportunity to get stuffs for back home and work.

As it was past lunchtime, we went down to the shopping centre in search of food. Majority of the food stores are located at the basement floor and compact in one huge dining area. There were many variety of stalls including 2 halal stall which were either Indian or Mediterranean.

We made our way back towards Taipei City Hall MRT station and visited the malls that we past. Still succumbing our desire to shop, we took note of all the items that we aimed to get.

With Hakimbo's passion of analogue photography, we decided to visit the Lomography store in Taipei at Dunhua. Without any research of Dunhua except the location of the Lomography store, we were amazed with what Dunhua has to offer.

Dunhua is a much more trendier place than Ximending and Shihlin, housing many well known brands such as Lomography, ABC Mart, and Porter International to name a few. More window shopping and an extending shopping list.

Due to a very long event the day after, we headed back to the hotel for a well deserving rest.

A mix of Day 1 and 2