Seoul-Ful New Year

After a great trip at Jeju-Do, we made our way back to Seoul city. I've recommended to return to Seoul Backpackers after a hospitable stay previously but it was quite different now under a new management. It's not that I had any hiccup, it's just a totally different atmosphere altogether now. The consolation is that it's within walking distance to many great places (besides the hill to climb with luggages during checking in).

My main intention in Seoul were mostly shopping but with someone with me, I had to put in some touristy itinerary.  I have summarised the tourist itinerary that we did since I've covered it mostly in my 2012 1/2/3 trip. However I will cover those that were not in the 2012 list.

Day 1:
Bukchon Hanok Village
Insadong
Cheonggyecheon stream
Myeongdong

Day 2:
Ski trip to Jisan Forest Resort
Government Ginseng Centre
Myeongdong
Bosingak for New Year Countdown

Day 3:
Sejong Square
Gyeongbokgung
Apgujeong Rodeo Street (Gangnam)
Itaewon
Hongdae
Dongdaemun
The first 3 days were mainly tourist locations and I was disheartened that Sopi was not keen in what the places had to offer. Since it was winter, majority of the places were gloomy and dull especially Cheonggyecheon which I loved. It was so grey this time round.

However, day 2 have been splendid. We were awoken to snowfall which lasted for about 3 hours but we were mostly aboard a bus en-route for our ski trip to Jisan Forest Resort which I booked through DMZtours.

Ok, I have to admit that skiing was not easy as it seems. I only managed to get the hang of it after 5 hours which was also the end of the session. Sopi didn't quite got it and I've sprained my wrist breaking his fall. I would still love to try skiing again and the next time would be a proper all-out skiing session which would probably cost a bomb.

As part of the tour package, we were brought to a Ginseng Centre like the other DMZ tour so I ended up at the back of the group.

We wanted to check out the New Year Celebration in Seoul and were hoping for some firework. Even with all the research, we didn't managed to find a location that boast fireworks. The main NY celebration was ringing of the bell to usher in the new year at Bosingak. It was a new experience to me since I do not go to concerts and gigs. I believe it was the same kind of crowd control. After counting down in Korean and the bells rung, people started dispersing like there's nothing more. True, there wasn't anything more.

I noticed that my travel mate was not satisfied with the itinerary and I admitted that I was not satisfied as well. I've decided that we went separate ways to conquer our own agendas. I've brought him to key areas of Seoul which he noted for a revisit and went ahead on day 7. So what did I do on my own solo day?

I woke up early in the morning to catch the first train to hike up Bukhansan since we've got defeated at Hallasan. Bukhansan is on the northern part of Seoul and I've picked the Dobongsan Trail. There are a few tracks and peaks that I got misdirected but I still ended at the targeted destination. The trail started with a snowy terrain and the destination at 739.5m above sea level was extremely cold and rocky.

Climbing may have been torturous but climbing down was worst. Due to the snowy slippery tracks, I slipped a couple of times. I didn't had that problem going up. I could have used the spikes that I've brought but the layer of ice was very thin and I would have damaged the spikes and also make my steps unbearable. It took me about 3 hours to complete ascending and descending Bukhansan that I had to rush for my remaining itineraries.

I made a quick stop to Yeongsan to check the Gunpla shop and lunch. I knew I shouldn't expect much for toy collection in Seoul but I did remember seeing great stuffs back in 2012.

I've actually been saving the best for later, especially after hiking Bukhansan. It's time for a Jjimjilbang visit. It almost similar to Japanese onsen but there are more things that you can do there. However, do note that it'll be a culture shock to most, bare skin throughout the bathing area. I remembered what the Ski instructor advised, "You are in a different country, so no one actually knows you to talk about you." True that, and that is the reason I chose the visit on a Solo day. I don't want to be stuck thinking of my friend stark naked. That changes the whole dynamic of a Singaporean society.

Anyway, I've decided to go to Siloam Sauna for the experience. It's located near the Seoul Station and it is quite easy to navigate. You make payment of around $10 to the front counter and proceed to the respective changing area. Lock up your shoe in a locker and exchange the key for a key to a locker for your other belonging. STRIP DOWN BARE and proceed for the bathing area.

From this point on, it may get NSFW.

Wash yourself thoroughly before stepping in the sauna. There are many tubs with different temperatures to try. After soaking for 20 minutes, I proceeded to go for a scrub by the employees in speedos. For a fee of around $15, they will scrub your ENTIRE body of dirt and you'll end up feeling sparkling clean. My attendant asked whether I want to add massage for what he said "10-10 thousand won". I didn't know the value he was referring to and just agreed to it.

That was the best bath of my life. After the scrub, he requested me to rinse again to rid the dirt that he managed to scrub. Upon returning, he started massaging using liquid soap to ease the strides throughout the whole body, nothing was spared. Then he did some cracking which felt so good. Facing up, I was ensuring that the little bugger was down and he was. Don't want to get any wrong vibes after that splendid feeling. He then place a mask over my face and and continued massaging on the front, dabbling minimally on the little guy. From top to bottom, he moved last to the hair by shampooing and rubbing my head. 

After a good hour or so I believed, he tapped me and said that it was over. I felt so refreshed that I didn't felt that I had a torturous morning. After the whole bath, I didn't had time to check the jjimjilbang as I have places I need to go and of course packing up. I knew I shouldn't be shocked at the price of the bath but that was also the most expensive bath of my life. The attendant actually meant 10 of 10 thousand won, hence it's about $120 for a bath.

Still smirking at the most expensive bath, I made my way to Hongdae and lastly Myeongdong to get al the items that I've mentally keeping track. I had the best time shopping and managed to control with spare expense.

Check out Satisfaction of Irrelevant Needs for more details of my list.

Also check out Facebook for more photo.

Overall, I didn't expect that I would still enjoy Korea, let alone Jeju again. Shopping is still great and the jjimjilbang is an eye-opener, not on the things I see but on the amount I paid. I foresee I will come again to conquer Hallasan. Till then... 

South Korea - Jeju

I can't believed that I've headed back to South Korea for the year end. I've been wanting to go back Korea for no apparent reason and I finally got the chance when my friend, Sopi wanted to tag along for a winter trip. So again, I've became a travel guide.

We were hoping for snow and I want some activities such as skiing/snowboarding and hiking. Hence, we concluded South Korea would be the destination. We got a cheap flight by Malaysia Airlines and will be staying at Seoul Backpackers again. Since we have 8 days, Sopi requested for another city. After much research, flight to Jeju with Air Busan was cheap and finalised Jeju as our go-to city.

As I mentioned way back on my 2012 Jeju Blog, getting around in Jeju is most convenient by car or taxi rental. Since I have someone this time, it was logical to rent a car instead. I managed to book a Hyundai Avante via KT Kumho at about $175 for 3 days inclusive of insurance and navigation. The cars are generally in good condition and fuel efficient. I received the car full and only need to return as such which I top-up only half tank at about $50. That's a half tank for a complete 3 days with hundreds of kilometres mileage.

The car rental also includes a complimentary GPS unit. The best way to input the destination is by keying in the telephone number of the establishment of the destination. Keying in the destination by name might lead somewhere else because of similar names.

The advantage of renting a car was that I can stop anywhere I wish. My last taxi ride brought me to amazing roads and views which were great for a photo stop. I managed to it this time, stopping at an empty road for photo shoots and windmill photos. I could even stop by the roadside to fool around with snow. Many of the Hallasan drives went through snowy bending roads which were fun.

Another great experience of renting the car was basically driving on the left side. That was totally a different yet familiar experience.

Accommodations in Jeju is relatively cheap. I got a good deal with Jeju Four Seasons at about $240 for 3 nights. It's located in Jeju-si so food are convenient however most attractions are quite far off. With the car however, anywhere is possible. The hotel also consist of parking for rental cars.

With the convenience of travelling by car, I did more attractions. The first attraction was Jeju Loveland which was nearby the hotel. Once we checked in and washed up after a whole day of travelling, we headed to Jeju Loveland during dusk. Somehow, it would be better to be visited during the day but there wasn't anything exciting. It was mostly erotic statues.

Day 2 was more attractions. We started early in the morning for sunrise at Seongsang Ilchubong. I still enjoyed this place especially the climb and beauty. Since it's a cloudy forecast, the sunrise was covered. Sopi was quite disappointed until I brought him down to the Women Divers Cove. Again, I was super excited because I decided to venture further in the cove. I got to take amazing photos of myself and the surrounding beauty.

Once we're satisfied and after breakfast, we headed to Jeju Kimnyong Mazeland. We took an estimated 22 minutes to complete. The Mazeland is also home to many cats which Sopi was excited about. While resting, one of the many cats jumped on my lap and snuggled in my coat. Carpet would so be jealous but she's snobby anyways.

Just a short drive up the same road is Manjanggul Lava Tube. I've a lot of hiking up activities that we could use a hike down. Apparently, there wasn't much in this attraction. Just set yourself to walk for 2KM to the end for some rock formations.

While driving to the next destination at Seogwipo, we drove along Hallasan until we've drove upon snowy roads. Sopi really wanted to stop but there wasn't any clearing for stopping until we reached a long row of parked cars. We did the same and noticed that it was one of the many Hallasan trails. Since we managed to parked, we were like kids playing in the snow. I got to throw many snowball this time, unlike the time I tried with the dirty snow in Beijing.

We continued our drive to Seogwipo for the waterfalls. I've only brought Sopi to Jeongbang and Cheonjeyeon since I've been to Cheonjiyeon. Among the 3 waterfalls, I preferred Jeongbang the best as the waterfall streamed into the sea and its the fullest stream that I've seen of the 3.

Since it was very close to sunset, we set to our destination to Songaksan at the west of Jeju. Again the forecast was cloudy and we didn't really managed to view a perfect sunset. After a quick bite since I've became to tired from all the long driving and climbing, we returned back to the hotel.

Day 3 was set solely for a hike up Hallasan. I've planned to track along Gwaneumsa trail which is 9KM long and one of the only 2 trails that leads to the peak. However, we came in slightly unprepared. Once we reached the 3.2KM marked, Sopi was struck with fear as he was unable to climb a snow covered stairs. Even with some persuasion, he decided to give up. We could climb up if we had spiked shoes. At that point I was very disappointed that we can't continue on but to back tracked. I mentally told myself that I'm with someone and safety of each other is most important. I had to keep telling myself that so that I would forgive the situation.

Luckily there are alternate routes and one of them even allows us to drive up. Once we were out of Gwaneumsa Trail, we've bought the spike attachments and drove to Yeongsil Trail. However, the road to Yeongsil entrance was heavily covered in snow that we had to park 3KM away and make our way by foot. Again, Sopi had another anxiety attack. He had a hard time breathing after we passed roughly 1KM away. Judging by the cloud movement, we were high above sea level. He decided to return to the car and wait for me to complete the trail.

I continued on, with spiked shoes for easier movement and reached the trail entrance. By then, I only had 3minutes before they refuse entry at 12pm. I would continue on but knowing I'm not travelling alone, I decided to return back to my travelling companion. At least I got up 1.28KM above sea-level point of Hallasan.

We drove down to World Cup Stadium for lunch and grocery shopping and drove back to the hotel.

After 2 failed attempts up Hallasan, I had this urge to return back to Jeju to complete what I failed (similar to Mt Inari of Kyoto). Somehow I see myself returning back to South Korea again just to conquer Hallasan. I don't really care of the other attractions.

Honestly, I didn't expected not to get bored of Jeju since this was my second trip there. I experienced new things and a failed challenge will urge me to return. Till then, enjoy the Jeju gallery and coming up, the Seoul portion of the trip.